Setbacks and Comebacks

I started my healthy hair journey (HHJ) in mid-2010. I kept the use of heat styling tools to a minimum, stretched the time between relaxers, did not over-process my hair, did not overlap relaxers, wore low-manipulation hair styles, deep conditioned my hair, kept my hair moisturised, and sealed the moisture in using various natural oils like avocado oil. I was doing everything right!

I saw huge improvement in the state of my hair. There was a lot less breakage, my hair looked thicker and fuller. It was longer, bouncier... full of life. By mid-2011 my hair had gone past shoulder length and was grazing arm-pit length - the longest my hair has ever been. However, I got so excited about having reached that length, and all my healthy hair habits flew right out the window. I was so excited to show off my hair that I started flat-ironing it twice a week. I stopped moisturising and sealing it daily because I did not want to weigh it down with products... I wanted that "swang"! When my hair was down, I would touch it constantly. When it wasn't down, I would have it in a ponytail. Then to top it all off, I decided I wanted to relax my hair bone straight, and did a "corrective" relaxer in January.

Naturally, I am now paying for my mistakes. I am experiencing my second setback in my HHJ. (The first setback was a thinning hair line. Click here to see how I grew back my hairline and nape.) I went from this:

September 2011

to this:

9 Steps to Grow Back Your Hairline

The hairs that form the hairline, edges and nape are always particularly fragile and thin, regardless of race and hair type. If you're a relaxed head, you have probably experienced a thinning hair line at some point. More so if you have had extended periods of braid extensions, weaves, cornrows or ponytails.

A thin hairline is far from attractive and limits the hair styles that you can wear.

The good news is that with a little tender loving care and plenty of patience, you can grow your hairline back. The exception is if the hair follicles have been damaged beyond repair. If you have bald spots that are smooth and show no signs of hair growth, then it is unlikely that the hair will grow back. Your best course of action would be to seek medical advice - visit your family doctor or see a dermatologist.

For mild cases of thinning hairline, follow these steps to nurse your hairline back to health:

List of Natural Oils for Hair Care

Natural oils are a must-have in hair care. Ethnic hair tends to be dry and/or porous, allowing moisture in and out of the hair very easily.They are used to seal moisture in the hair as oils are anti-humectants i.e. they repel water.

Oils are also used to massage the scalp - they contain nutrients that nourish hair follicles. Some oils also irrigate hair follicles. The process of massaging stimulates circulation in the scalp and promotes healthy hair growth. 

Carrier oils are gentle oils that can be used on their own. Essential oils are strong potent oils that should never be used directly on the hair or scalp. An essential oil must be mixed with a carrier oil before use. A drop or two of essential oil in a couple of spoonfuls of carrier oi is more than enough. Exercise caution when using essential oils.

Here is a list of some natural carrier oils:

Inside-Out: Biotin Supplements for Hair Growth

Biotin, a.k.a vitamin B7 is essential for growth of new hair as it plays a vital role in the hair manufacturing process. It helps the body release growth nutrients from fatty acids.

A biotin deficiency may cause hair loss. Biotin is found in foods like liver and egg yolks. It can also be taken as a supplement. The recommended dosage is 1000mcg (micrograms) per day. Pick up a bottle at your nearest health store or large pharmacy.

Hair 101: How Hair Reacts Under Different Conditions

We’ve established that hair is made up of mostly protein, and that it requires moisture to maintain elasticity. We also know about the hair growth cycle and the rate at which hair grows. In this post, we’ll learn how hair reacts under different conditions.

Temperature: Hot or Cold

When you apply heat to your hair, some of the hydrogen bonds between the keratin fibres are broken. This temporarily loosens the curl pattern of the hair. Hair can be straightened by applying direct heat e.g. using a flat iron, or by applying indirect heat e.g. using a hair dryer on hair that is under tension. The curl pattern can be “reset” by wetting the hair.

Indirect heat (e.g. warm water or a hair dryer) not only loosens the curl pattern, it also opens the cuticle. An open cuticle allows the hair to absorb whatever is applied to it. On the other hand, the cuticle closes when hair is cooled e.g. rinsing with cold water or using the cool shot button on a hair dryer. Thus, when you want your hair to absorb something, indirect heat helps (e.g. sitting under a hair dryer when you deep condition your hair). When you want the hair to retain what it has absorbed, cool it down.

Hair Types: Curly, Straight and Everything in Between

Finding your hair type is key to figuring out what your hair needs. Straight hair allows the oily sebum produced by the scalp to travel down the hair shaft. This seals in moisture, so the hair feels smooth and silky. Sebum does not travel down curly hair as easily. Any moisture in the hair can easily escape through the cuticle leaving the hair feeling dry.

If you have straight hair, you will need to wash your hair often to avoid it becoming greasy.

If you have curly hair, it's important to find a way to seal moisture in the hair shaft. This is usually achieved by using natural oils e.g. jojoba oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, or silicone products. If you choose to use silicone products, remember that you will need to use a clarifying shampoo from time to time to remove silicone buildup.

Finding the Balance: Protein and Moisture

Now that we’ve established that the hair’s two main requirements are protein and moisture, the next question is: how much protein and how much moisture?

Well, too much protein means the hair’s tensile strength increases dramatically, to the point that the hair snaps like a twig when manipulated. So to combat the effect of protein, add moisture to maintain the elasticity of your hair.

On the other hand, too much moisture will make hair very elastic and stretchy. When manipulated, e.g. when brushing the hair, it will stretch more than it should, creating weakness in the protein structures within, which leads to breakage.

Each individual’s hair is different. Some people may find that their hair needs more protein than others, and others may find that their hair needs more moisture. Pay attention to your hair - in time you will learn to tell when it needs protein and when it needs moisture.

In general, it is recommended to have a protein treatment once a month. This will depend on whether you use a light or heavy protein conditioner (more on this later).

When it comes to moisture, the general consensus is that you can never have too much moisture. This is because most of us suffer from dry hair due to chemically straightening our hair with relaxers. Relaxers leave the hair cuticle thinner and slightly open, so the moisture within our hair tends to escape much easier.

My recommendation is to have a moisture treatment at least twice a week.