Hair Types: Curly, Straight and Everything in Between

Finding your hair type is key to figuring out what your hair needs. Straight hair allows the oily sebum produced by the scalp to travel down the hair shaft. This seals in moisture, so the hair feels smooth and silky. Sebum does not travel down curly hair as easily. Any moisture in the hair can easily escape through the cuticle leaving the hair feeling dry.

If you have straight hair, you will need to wash your hair often to avoid it becoming greasy.

If you have curly hair, it's important to find a way to seal moisture in the hair shaft. This is usually achieved by using natural oils e.g. jojoba oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, or silicone products. If you choose to use silicone products, remember that you will need to use a clarifying shampoo from time to time to remove silicone buildup.

Finding the Balance: Protein and Moisture

Now that we’ve established that the hair’s two main requirements are protein and moisture, the next question is: how much protein and how much moisture?

Well, too much protein means the hair’s tensile strength increases dramatically, to the point that the hair snaps like a twig when manipulated. So to combat the effect of protein, add moisture to maintain the elasticity of your hair.

On the other hand, too much moisture will make hair very elastic and stretchy. When manipulated, e.g. when brushing the hair, it will stretch more than it should, creating weakness in the protein structures within, which leads to breakage.

Each individual’s hair is different. Some people may find that their hair needs more protein than others, and others may find that their hair needs more moisture. Pay attention to your hair - in time you will learn to tell when it needs protein and when it needs moisture.

In general, it is recommended to have a protein treatment once a month. This will depend on whether you use a light or heavy protein conditioner (more on this later).

When it comes to moisture, the general consensus is that you can never have too much moisture. This is because most of us suffer from dry hair due to chemically straightening our hair with relaxers. Relaxers leave the hair cuticle thinner and slightly open, so the moisture within our hair tends to escape much easier.

My recommendation is to have a moisture treatment at least twice a week.