Setbacks and Comebacks

I started my healthy hair journey (HHJ) in mid-2010. I kept the use of heat styling tools to a minimum, stretched the time between relaxers, did not over-process my hair, did not overlap relaxers, wore low-manipulation hair styles, deep conditioned my hair, kept my hair moisturised, and sealed the moisture in using various natural oils like avocado oil. I was doing everything right!

I saw huge improvement in the state of my hair. There was a lot less breakage, my hair looked thicker and fuller. It was longer, bouncier... full of life. By mid-2011 my hair had gone past shoulder length and was grazing arm-pit length - the longest my hair has ever been. However, I got so excited about having reached that length, and all my healthy hair habits flew right out the window. I was so excited to show off my hair that I started flat-ironing it twice a week. I stopped moisturising and sealing it daily because I did not want to weigh it down with products... I wanted that "swang"! When my hair was down, I would touch it constantly. When it wasn't down, I would have it in a ponytail. Then to top it all off, I decided I wanted to relax my hair bone straight, and did a "corrective" relaxer in January.

Naturally, I am now paying for my mistakes. I am experiencing my second setback in my HHJ. (The first setback was a thinning hair line. Click here to see how I grew back my hairline and nape.) I went from this:

September 2011

to this:

Finding the Balance: Protein and Moisture

Now that we’ve established that the hair’s two main requirements are protein and moisture, the next question is: how much protein and how much moisture?

Well, too much protein means the hair’s tensile strength increases dramatically, to the point that the hair snaps like a twig when manipulated. So to combat the effect of protein, add moisture to maintain the elasticity of your hair.

On the other hand, too much moisture will make hair very elastic and stretchy. When manipulated, e.g. when brushing the hair, it will stretch more than it should, creating weakness in the protein structures within, which leads to breakage.

Each individual’s hair is different. Some people may find that their hair needs more protein than others, and others may find that their hair needs more moisture. Pay attention to your hair - in time you will learn to tell when it needs protein and when it needs moisture.

In general, it is recommended to have a protein treatment once a month. This will depend on whether you use a light or heavy protein conditioner (more on this later).

When it comes to moisture, the general consensus is that you can never have too much moisture. This is because most of us suffer from dry hair due to chemically straightening our hair with relaxers. Relaxers leave the hair cuticle thinner and slightly open, so the moisture within our hair tends to escape much easier.

My recommendation is to have a moisture treatment at least twice a week.

Hair 101: The Science of Healthy Hair (1)

In order to achieve healthy hair you must first seek to understand what your hair is made of, what it needs and how it reacts under differing circumstances.

In this instalment, you’ll learn about the structure of hair.

Hair consists of three layers.

The innermost layer is called the medulla. The medulla is filled with air. It may or may not be present in the hair, and is largely found in thick hair.

The layer surrounding the medulla is the cortex. This layer gives the hair its strength and colour. It contains fibres of a special protein called keratin, water, lipids and traces of minerals. It also contains pigment molecules known as melanin that determine the colour of the hair.

The outer layer is a protective layer called the cuticle. The cuticle is several layers of overlapping, translucent sheets organised much like tiles on a roof. The cuticle can open and close.

Now that you know what hair is made of you know what it needs: protein for strength and moisture for elasticity. You can give your hair the protein and moisture it requires from the inside via your diet, or from the outside via hair products. Finding the right balance between protein and moisture is crucial. Too much protein and not enough moisture will lead to dry, brittle hair that breaks. Too much moisture and not enough protein will lead to mushy hair that stretches and snaps when manipulated. If your hair is breaking, it appears not to be growing.

Part two of the science of healthy hair will explore the hair growth cycle. Learning about the cycle will help you figure out why your hair seems not to grow. That’s the first step to growing healthy hair!